Pheran: A mark of our identity
Tousif Raza
Pheran has made come back after it was denied by the skimpy models on the ramps of top fashion shows. In the hands of hot selling countries of cosmopolitan cities it once became a fashion statement.
The Pheran had a lowly presence in the wardrobe of Kashmiri women, but it is slowly regaining its cultural pre-eminence. Men have by and large clung to its cozy comfort during winters and it is all embracing expanse.
This Kashmiri garment has a long history, some arc tracing the origin of Pheran to early centuries of Christian era. They believe Kushan people (the people of high area) first introduced this beautiful garment.
Few sculptures, and coins dated to Kushan period have also carried similar dress features. Most of the scholars view it as a later development. Dates apart the tradition of wearing Pheran in this land is centuries old.
In earlier periods it was used in winters but later it became the fashion of the day for entire year particularly for women. Pheran made of wool were used in winter while as summer Pheran were made of cotton.
Although men hardly wear it in summer but Kashmiri women followed the tradition of wearing it throughout the year. The looseness of the garment went well with the orthodox culture of the valley. They used to wear Pheran covered their heads sometimes by “pooch” (Kashmiri translational scarf) and some time with Kasaaba (A Kashmiri traditional hijab).
Kasaaba was especially for elderly ladies, they used to wear it while going outside. The traditional hijab Kasaaba was considered as burqa as well.
With the onslaught of western and Punjabi culture Pheran took a back seat. Women all over the valley became fashion conscious and tried to adopt western dresses as their usual wearing dress, through this variation in dress Pheran lost its appeal. The ultra modern fashions show promoted women to follow the order of the day. She had even no objection to wear transparent clothes that too with full confidence.
Almost all the people neglected the tradition and went on promoting non-Kashmiri dresses. The society began to ape the upwardly mobile fashionable class. The arrival of many western groups including missionaries our dresses too witnessed a change as we copied their dresses and attire.
During the period of British residency several missionary institutions and hospitals were set up in the valley. These institutions promoted education and medical facilities for us. What we copied was only the style and dress.
Fortunately, for last few years there is a revival of traditional wears. Mention may be made of Kashmiri Pheran. It is not out of nostalgia but an overwhelming call to the culture modeled by God knows how many natural and artificial forces, weather, poverty, taste, influence and like.
International Pheran day had a message to all of us who believe in traditional dress. If you are really eager to upgrade your existence develop a character of a real Kashmiri. Our classical dress like Pheran is not less impressive and attractive.
(The author is a student and hails from Tangmarg)
