The bronze capital of Kerala
By: K S S Pillai
When I read about a massive bell being installed at the newly built Ram temple at Ayodhya, I thought that it might have been made in my native place of Mannar in Kerala, but that was not the case.
Mannar is still known as the bronze capital of Kerala. Those who wish to buy anything made of bronze first think of visiting Mannar. Many temples and churches in the country and outside still get their large bells made there. As I write this piece, there comes the news that a 1000-kilogram ‘deepastambham’ with a height of 13 feet has been sent from Mannar to a temple in Michigan in the USA.
The town dots with several shops selling shining oil lamps called ‘nilavilakku’, and traditional cooking vessels like ‘uruli’ and ‘varpu’ of different sizes. Although food is no longer cooked in these vessels, some keep them at prominent places in their houses as decoration.
The news about the Ayodhya bell reminded me of my childhood at Mannar. My neighbours were descendants of those brought from Tanjavur and Sankarankoil in Tamil Nadu for the construction of temples. Their children continued to live there. Most of them were engaged in the bell metal industry, and some were experts in making silver and gold ornaments. Many of my classmates at the primary and secondary schools were from these families.
There were several ‘alas’ or kilns around my house, employing several workers to make idols of gods and goddesses, large bells of churches and temples, and cooking vessels in bronze. One of the reasons for the thriving bronze business was that the particular type of clay needed for making moulds was available only in that area. Most people used to take their meals in plates called ‘kinnans’ made by them and drank water and other liquids from bronze glasses. As these items were the monopoly of Mannar, a thriving business of people carrying them on their heads to distant villages for sale also started.
Every house used to place a ‘kindi’ with water near its main entrance to wash one’s feet when coming from outside. Hindu houses had lamps called ‘nilavilakku’ lit with cotton wicks using vegetable oil at twilight. All family members would sit in front of the lamp kept near the photographs of gods and goddesses and say prayers loudly. The continuous sound of the bell from the nearby Siva temple would be heard throughout, bringing an atmosphere of piety.
The lingua franca of these people was Tamil, but they spoke Malayalam while interacting with the locals. Their women wore a particular type of saree called ‘chelas’ in the Tamil style, and their mangalsutras, worn on yellow cotton strings, were also different. They would make a paste of turmeric while bathing in the nearby Pamba River and dab their faces and the strings of mangalsutras with it.
The town was divided into two parts – Kurattikkadu in the east and Kurattisseri in the west. Several Tamilian families settled in both parts and constructed a temple of Durga in each area. They celebrated the festivals of Tamil Nadu with fervour. Selected people would pour boiling turmeric water onto their bodies without causing burns. Those who played musical instruments like nadaswaram and drums during the festivals were brought from Tamil Nadu. I still remember them as pot-bellied black men with thick golden chains on their necks, wearing white dhoties.
The ‘alas’ have all but disappeared from many areas. Those still working are owned by a few rich people in the community. Many talented workers work in the workshops of other businessmen. Most of my contemporaries have abandoned the trade. Tamil is hardly spoken, and they have adopted the dress style of the locals. Though they still celebrate the Tamil festivals in their temples, it is not with the old enthusiasm.
The place has a long history of religious harmony. Apart from the Hindus, it has a large population of Muslims and Christians. There are several temples, churches, and mosques there. The festivals of all religions are celebrated with the active participation of all people.
(The author is a retired professor of English. A regular contributor to ‘The Kashmir Vision’, his articles and short stories have appeared in several national and international publications)
